Why go
The Spice Bazaar, Mısır Çarşısı or the Egyptian Bazaar in Turkish, was built in the 1660s as part of the New Mosque complex on the Eminönü waterfront, and its rents helped pay for the mosque’s upkeep. Its name comes from the customs revenues from Ottoman Egypt that funded it. For more than three centuries it has been the city’s great market for spices, herbs and dried foods, and although much of the trade inside is now aimed at visitors, it is still a colourful, fragrant and enjoyable place to wander. Unlike the Grand Bazaar, it opens on Sundays. It is also compact, so a visit fits easily between a ferry ride and lunch, and the neighbourhood around it is one of the busiest and most characterful trading districts in the old city.
What to see
The bazaar is a single L-shaped hall, roofed with vaults and entered through tall gates at each end, with around 85 shops along its length. Stalls are piled with spices in neat pyramids, from sumac and dried chilli flakes (pul biber) to saffron and spice blends for köfte and kebabs. There are mountains of lokum, or Turkish delight, in dozens of flavours, along with dried apricots, figs and mulberries, pistachios, hazelnuts, herbal teas, honeycomb and caviar. Look up at the vaulted ceiling and the old shop signs, and, above the main gate, for the rooms that once housed a commercial court.
The real market life is in the streets around the hall. Outside the western gate, Tahmis Sokak is home to Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi, where Istanbul has bought its ground coffee since 1871, and to cheese, olive and pastırma shops that serve local customers. The open-air plant and pet market lies alongside the bazaar.
Plan your visit
Entry is free. The bazaar opens every day, including Sundays, from about 8am to 7.30pm, and closes on 29 October, Republic Day, and on the main days of religious holidays. Mornings are calmer; by midday, and especially when cruise ships are in port, the hall becomes very crowded.
Prices are normally in Turkish lira, often by weight, and many traders will let you taste before buying. Prices in the main hall are higher than in the streets outside, so compare before you buy in quantity. If you plan to take spices or lokum home, ask for vacuum packing. Light bargaining is acceptable for larger purchases, but this is less of a haggling market than the Grand Bazaar. Allow 45 minutes for the hall alone, or longer to explore the surrounding streets. Several traders ship goods abroad, but check the costs and customs rules for your country first. If you only want a small souvenir, the boxed lokum and tea blends travel well and make easy gifts.
Nearby
The New Mosque (Yeni Cami) stands beside the bazaar, and the tile-covered Rüstem Pasha Mosque is a few minutes’ walk west. The Eminönü ferry piers and the Galata Bridge are across the road, and the Grand Bazaar is about fifteen minutes uphill through the busy market streets of Mahmutpaşa.