Why go
Fener and Balat, side by side on the southern shore of the Golden Horn, were for centuries home to the city’s Greek Orthodox, Jewish and Armenian communities. Fener, the Phanar, became the seat of the Ecumenical Patriarch after 1453 and the home of wealthy Greek families; Balat, next door, was a busy Jewish quarter with several synagogues. Most of those communities left during the 20th century, and the area grew poor and run-down, but its steep cobbled lanes, brightly painted wooden and brick houses and old religious buildings survived. In recent years it has become one of the most popular areas for visitors, with cafés, antique shops and galleries opening among the family homes and corner grocers.
It makes a refreshing contrast with the monuments of Sultanahmet: a place to wander without a plan.
What to see
In Fener, the Church of St George is the seat of the Ecumenical Patriarchate, the spiritual centre of the Orthodox world; the church is modest outside but richly decorated within. On the hill above it, the red brick Phanar Greek Orthodox College looks like a castle and dominates the skyline. Down by the water, the Bulgarian Church of St Stephen is an unusual sight: it was made almost entirely of cast iron, prefabricated in Vienna and shipped down the Danube in the 1890s. Its restored interior is bright with gilding.
In Balat, the Ahrida Synagogue is one of the oldest in Istanbul, though visits usually need to be arranged in advance. The best thing to do, though, is simply to walk: up Kiremit Caddesi with its photogenic coloured houses, through the antique dealers of Vodina Caddesi, and down to the waterfront parks. Stop in one of the many cafés, or at a traditional bakery for a simit.
Plan your visit
Balat and Fener are open neighbourhoods, free to explore at any time. Churches and synagogues keep their own hours and may close during services, and some ask for a donation. Dress modestly for religious buildings: shoulders and knees covered, and a headscarf for women in mosques. Allow two to three hours for a relaxed walk, more if you stop for lunch.
These are lived-in streets, not a film set. Be considerate when taking photographs, avoid blocking doorways, and do not photograph people without asking. The lanes are steep and cobbled, so wear comfortable shoes. Weekday mornings are quieter than weekends, when the most popular cafés and photo spots are busy. Guided walks are available if you want the area’s history explained as you go.
The T5 tram runs along the waterfront from Eminönü, with stops at Fener and Balat. Ferries on the Golden Horn line also call at both, which makes for a scenic way to arrive.
Nearby
Chora, with its Byzantine mosaics, is about twenty minutes’ walk uphill. The Theodosian land walls meet the Golden Horn at Ayvansaray, just beyond Balat. Across the water, a ferry or a short taxi ride takes you to Eyüp, with its important mosque and the Pierre Loti hill café.
