Rome could fill a lifetime, but some of the best experiences in central Italy are just outside the city. Ancient ports, Renaissance gardens, hill towns and the buried city of Pompeii are all within reach in a day. Here are the most rewarding trips, how long they take and how to get there.
Tivoli: Villa d’Este and Hadrian’s Villa
About 30 kilometres east of Rome, the hill town of Tivoli has two UNESCO World Heritage sites. Villa d’Este is a 16th-century cardinal’s palace with terraced gardens full of fountains, from the Hundred Fountains to the water-powered Organ Fountain. Hadrian’s Villa, below the town, was the emperor’s vast country palace, a city of pools, baths and theatres.
Regional trains from Roma Tiburtina reach Tivoli in about an hour, and Cotral buses leave from Ponte Mammolo on Metro line B. The two villas are about 5 kilometres apart, so many visitors book a tour with transport. Both are free on the first Sunday of the month, and Villa d’Este opens only at 2pm on Mondays.
Ostia Antica
The closest and easiest trip is Ostia Antica, ancient Rome’s port at the mouth of the Tiber. Its streets, apartment blocks, taverns, baths and theatre are remarkably complete, and it is usually far quieter than the Forum. Roma-Lido trains run from Porta San Paolo, next to Piramide on Metro line B, in about 30 minutes, on a standard city ticket. Allow half a day and wear good shoes.
Pompeii and Naples
Pompeii, buried by Vesuvius in AD 79, is the most famous archaeological site in the world, and it is possible as a long day trip. High-speed trains reach Naples in about an hour, and the Circumvesuviana local line continues to Pompei Scavi in around 40 minutes. Organised tours from Rome run the whole day by coach, often adding Vesuvius or lunch. Expect at least 12 hours door to door.
Orvieto
Perched on a cliff of volcanic rock in Umbria, Orvieto has one of Italy’s most beautiful cathedrals, its façade glittering with mosaics, and a labyrinth of Etruscan caves beneath the town. Regional trains from Termini take about 1 hour 15 minutes, and a funicular climbs from the station to the old town. Combine it with Civita di Bagnoregio, the ‘dying town’ on its crumbling ridge, on a tour.
Florence
High-speed trains from Termini reach Florence in about an hour and a half, making a day there easy. You will not see everything, so choose: the Duomo and Brunelleschi’s dome, the Uffizi or Michelangelo’s David at the Accademia, with timed tickets booked ahead.
Castel Gandolfo and the Castelli Romani
The Alban Hills south-east of Rome are dotted with wine towns known as the Castelli Romani. Castel Gandolfo, overlooking Lake Albano, was for centuries the popes’ summer residence, and its Papal Palace and gardens are open to visitors. Frascati is known for its white wine and porchetta. Regional trains from Termini take about 45 minutes.
Assisi
The birthplace of St Francis, Assisi rises above the Umbrian plain, with the frescoed Basilica of St Francis at its western end. Trains take about two hours with a change, so it is best on a tour or as an overnight stay.
Closer to the city: the Appian Way
If you only have a few hours, head south along the Appian Way, the ancient road lined with tombs, pines and ruined villas. Rent a bike, explore the catacombs and finish at the Baths of Caracalla on the way back. Bus 118 runs from Circo Massimo along the route.
Which trip should you choose?
For a first trip, Tivoli offers the best mix of history, gardens and scenery within an hour. Ostia Antica is ideal for a half day or for anyone who loved the Forum. Pompeii is unmissable for many but makes a very long day, so consider staying a night in Naples or Sorrento if you can. Orvieto and Assisi suit travellers who want to see a hill town, and Florence is best if it is your only chance on this trip.
Before you go
Check opening days: many sites close one day a week, and winter hours are short, with several sites closing around 4.30pm to 5pm from November to February. Buy train tickets ahead for high-speed services, which are cheaper in advance, and validate paper regional tickets before boarding. A guided day trip, many with entry included, is the easiest option.