Why go
Trastevere, literally ‘across the Tiber’, has always felt a little apart from the rest of Rome. For centuries it was a working district of sailors, artisans and immigrants, with its own dialect and a fierce local pride. Today its cobbled lanes, ochre houses draped in ivy, washing lines and small piazzas make it the most photogenic neighbourhood in the city.
It is also where Romans and visitors come to eat and drink. As evening falls, the squares fill with people, the trattorias put out their tables and the bars spill onto the streets. Come for the atmosphere as much as the sights, but leave time for the sights too, because some of the oldest churches in Rome are here.
What to see
- Santa Maria in Trastevere. One of Rome’s oldest churches, with dazzling 12th and 13th-century gold mosaics in the apse and on the façade.
- Piazza di Santa Maria. The heart of the district, with its fountain steps a natural meeting point.
- Santa Cecilia in Trastevere. A quieter church built over the saint’s house, with a moving marble statue of her.
- Villa Farnesina. A Renaissance villa with frescoes by Raphael, including the Triumph of Galatea.
- The Gianicolo. The hill above Trastevere, with one of the best free views over the city.
- Tiber Island. The small island in the river, reached by Rome’s oldest surviving bridge, the Ponte Fabricio.
Plan your visit
Trastevere is a neighbourhood rather than a single sight, so there are no tickets or opening hours for the area itself. The churches are free and generally open from morning to evening, closing for services, while Villa Farnesina charges for entry and keeps its own hours. Dress modestly in churches, with shoulders covered.
The best plan is to arrive in the late afternoon, wander the lanes and churches in daylight, watch the sunset from the Gianicolo and then come back down for dinner. On Friday and Saturday evenings popular trattorias fill quickly, so book a table or eat early by Roman standards, before 8pm. On Sunday mornings the Porta Portese flea market spreads along the southern edge of the district.
Getting there
Tram 8 runs from Largo di Torre Argentina, close to the Pantheon, across the river to Viale di Trastevere, the district’s main road. From Campo de’ Fiori, cross the pedestrian Ponte Sisto and you are in Trastevere in ten minutes. There is no Metro station.
Tips
Lose the map and explore the side streets north of Viale di Trastevere, where the oldest lanes are. Avoid restaurants with staff touting at the door or menus with photographs, and look for places full of Romans instead. Classic dishes to try include cacio e pepe, carbonara, supplì and carciofi in season. Trastevere is lively late at night, so if you are staying here, ask for a room away from the street. A guided food tour is a good way to sample a lot in one evening.
By day, Trastevere is a pleasant base for slower sightseeing. Browse the artisan workshops and small shops on Via della Lungaretta, and stop for coffee on a quiet square.
